Venty by Storz & Bickel

bardad

Well-Known Member
Vapes make you cough because THC is a lung irritant and terpenes are caustic and burn your throat. There's no getting around that if you want fast extraction.

If you want to avoid coughing, extract slower to spread out the irritation. One way is vapor dilution. I did that on the Mighty for years and it works perfectly. The second way is lower temps. My lungs & throat get irritated easily and I never cough if I start the Venty at 170-180C and temp step using the two boost levels when the vapor thins out (draw restriction set to minimum).
It just got super gunked up really and nasty and started discolouring after ten days of use. Will definitely have to replace it now with all the microplastics in there.

I will give it another go today but very much doubt I'll get it off. Cheers
no photo?
 
bardad,

brquad225

Well-Known Member
I understand videos are usually better, but
Instructions are in the manual...
And in the FAQ's on this page,
Umm...yea. I read the instructions. I also saw the video about changing the oven filter. Not what I was after. Videos for a product like this seem necessary, not just -- a plus. Obviously, I figured it out. It would be better to see how it's done in a short video though. That's all I'm saying
 
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jdjdjdjdj

New Member

Let's be careful out there...
I am probably going to have to get that tool they are using. :brow::brow:

Would rubber work quite well with prying it out without damaging the insides? My main concern is scratching the oven or ceramic.

Thanks so much with the video, helps to know the motion a little bit more and what I am aiming for. The little plastic prodders they gave us basically just turned the mesh into a grater and the plastic into cheese.

We'll get there, next time though, that little thing is staying put!
 

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
It just got super gunked up really and nasty and started discolouring after ten days of use. Will definitely have to replace it now with all the microplastics in there.

I will give it another go today but very much doubt I'll get it off. Cheers
Where did the micro plastics come from? Were you scraping parts?
 
MonkeyTime,

MonkeyTime

Well-Known Member
Was trying to work on pulling the mesh out with the little plastic prodder that comes with. Mine was pretty immovable so any attempt without something solid like metal would roll over and scrape the plastic off into the mesh.

Realised my idiocy just a little too late unfortunately.
You were working!
 
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Like I said originally, you need a metal tool, the one in the video looks like a metal “spooger”, with a fairly DULL edge…..
Glad the crisis is over! :)
 
RustyOldNail,

666Honeybadger

Unknown member
Apparently this has been up for a month...

LoL
I was reading the beginnings of the TM thread and there's complaints at first because the cooling unit was found to be "hard to disassemble". Now you should know that the TM cooling unit is litterally two SS parts that screw apart, with some SS nuts and washers inside and two o-rings. It takes like a full seven seconds to disassemble AND reassemble.... Cleaning is a breeze.

I really don't want to be a hater but this right here is the definition of "hard to disassemble" in my eyes tbh. :ko::shrug:

So many (tiny, plastic) parts (it's like German Lego) and rings?? Two tools are needed?

That seems a lot of fiddling and a lot of work to be left with a bunch of parts that still are pretty hard to fully clean (with all the 'nooks and crannies'), no? Or am i missing some advantage here?
 
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RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
LoL
I was reading the beginnings of the TM thread and there's complaints at first because the cooling unit was found to be "hard to disassemble". Now you should know that the TM cooling unit is litterally two SS parts that screw apart, with some SS nuts and washers inside and two o-rings. It takes like a full seven seconds to disassemble AND reassemble.... Cleaning is a breeze.

I really don't want to be a hater but this right here is the definition of "hard to disassemble" in my eyes tbh. :ko::shrug:

So many (tiny, plastic) parts (it's like German Lego) and rings?? Two tools are needed?

That seems a lot of fiddling and a lot of work to be left with a bunch of parts that still are pretty hard to fully clean (with all the 'nooks and crannies'), no? Or am i missing some advantage here?

I think you are missing that this video tutorial is a COMPLETE breakdown and cleaning, supplied so customers understand the parts and how they go together. Not just for cleaning, but parts replacement by the end user, etc.

I assume you don’t own one?

Regardless, I rarely if ever need to do a complete parts soaking. While the video is useful and serves its purpose, I have taken mine apart to learn, but not soak. Cleaning the CU is dead simple, takes me 5 minutes with some ethanol and Qtips. In fact, it’s one of the easier devices to keep in clean condition then most of my other devices. Of course, if one is lazy, and doesn’t bother with basic cleaning, like every other device, cleaning becomes more time consuming.

Hope that helps you….
 
The CU is definitely a bit of a pain to deal with. It's tedious to take apart and reassemble. The actual cleaning is not bad if you stay on top of it, just iso soak for 20-30 mins and rinse. I swab the bowl with an iso q-tip while I'm soaking the CU, but otherwise I'm just brushing it out immediately after each bowl.

Other than that, I don't really have any complaints with the Venty and it has become my new driver.
 

WirtDog

Well-Known Member
I am probably going to have to get that tool they are using. :brow::brow:

Would rubber work quite well with prying it out without damaging the insides? My main concern is scratching the oven or ceramic.

Thanks so much with the video, helps to know the motion a little bit more and what I am aiming for. The little plastic prodders they gave us basically just turned the mesh into a grater and the plastic into cheese.

We'll get there, next time though, that little thing is staying put!
I am really puzzled as to why anyone would need to remove the Venty heater screen with so little usage?
 

jdjdjdjdj

New Member
I am really puzzled as to why anyone would need to remove the Venty heater screen with so little usage?
Mentioned earlier up in the thread. It got quite ganky and nasty with the mesh. Not sure if I got some moisture in there or whatever.

I've used my Crafty+ way more and that is yet to brown on the heater screen. Genuinely was just looking for support.

Finally got it out, took quite a lot of tugging and yeah, really was not an easy job.
 
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SolidAirrr

Well-Known Member
Have I missed it or has really none of the early adopters opened up their bricked Venty and posted some pictures?

Btw, can you screw on that cooling unit both ways, facing left/right?
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
LITTLE COMFORT MOD:

Some members here may be familiar with my device preferences over the years. As a fan of “miniaturization”, I have usually sought out the smallest devices. I bought the Venty, mostly because of the latest 130w. heater technology, and adjustable airflow, which all the reviews confirmed. I wasn’t sure if I would like a LARGER device, and I never liked using my Mighty, because of how it felt to hold in the hand. Perhaps, as most of my vape devices are so small, I SURPRISED myself, in that I really LIKE how the Venty feels in use, in my hand. Like picking up a small “power tool”. I actually like it!

One tiny issue I didn’t like, is the SHARP EDGE around the bottom of the CU=COOLING UNIT. I figure S&B went with the design choice of matching the FIN LINES of the body, or didn’t want to add an additional process in the manufacturing process, so they didn’t SMOOTH the bottom CU EDGES. I can FEEL these sharp edges while holding it. Nothing major, just a bit off…..

So, no big deal to do a LITTLE COMFORT MOD:

Starting with 220A, then 400A EMORY PAPER, I sanded down the CU BOTTOM EDGES. Using the coarse Emory then the finer one, at a 45 degree angle. Took a few minutes, no visible difference when done. But much BETTER feel in my hand now.

Just thought I’d share this, in case this bothered anyone, like me! :)
 

SolidAirrr

Well-Known Member
Thanks for pointing @RustyOldNail 👍
Those pics are not that satisfying.
Next to the batteries I was interested in seeing how the housing comes apart/ is held together. Couldn't see that. OP there talks about 'screw covers'...
Initially I was curious whether a battery mod, like with the Mighty, to make them exchangeable, was possible. Seems very tight with that battery compartment in there though. A general replacement should be doable though...
One of s&b's promo photos with the plastic cover opened like a lid got me thinking and would be really neat :D
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Thanks for pointing @RustyOldNail 👍
Those pics are not that satisfying.
Next to the batteries I was interested in seeing how the housing comes apart/ is held together. Couldn't see that. OP there talks about 'screw covers'...
Initially I was curious whether a battery mod, like with the Mighty, to make them exchangeable, was possible. Seems very tight with that battery compartment in there though. A general replacement should be doable though...
One of s&b's promo photos with the plastic cover opened like a lid got me thinking and would be really neat :D

Most devices with non replaceable 18650 lithium batteries, have metal tab connections WELDED to the battery terminals, this is so there are no connection issues, that occasionally happen with all the different types of spring and metal tabs used on devices with removable batteries. I’ve never tried removing the welded on metal tabs, my understanding is with the proper equipment, like high heat torches, it’s possible, but can also be dangerous and heating up the battery’s while doing it that way, is obviously not good for the batteries. I assume one could possibly GRIND these tabs off, but since I have plenty of quality Molicel 18650’s I’m not going to waste my time bothering.

The “screw covers”, are probably the 4 orange tabs, located on the top of the main unit, next to the bowl.
 
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Pukka

Well-Known Member
I’ve never tried removing the welded on metal tabs, my understanding is with the proper equipment, like high heat torches, it’s possible, but can also be dangerous and heating up the battery’s while doing it that way, is obviously not good for the batteries.
I've deleted the tab back in the days of 12th scale electric carpet racing (every milligram helps). Yes, I'm an idiot and nobody should do as I do. It can be really unsafe. However, if you're desperate enough, too poor to spend 5usd on a Molicel and stupid like me the spot weld just peels off.
 
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