Recent content by Alan

I remove the dowel before installing the screen and stand the paper tube vertically on a table while inserting the screen so that the center of the roll can't be pushed out. The screen stays in place by the edges biting into the paper. It is fairly easy to push in, but almost impossible to push...

3/8” wooden dowels are generally a little smaller than 3/8” in diameter, which will make a paper tube that can be too tight. Using something exactly 3/8”, like a ss tube, works the best. It is possible to wrap the wooden dowel with masking tape to make it larger in diameter. 1” wide tape will...

It has taken me a while, but I finished making all versions of the GTR heater cover and took a photo to provide a comparison. The glass heater covers are held to the base wood using natural cork rings and ss screws. Intake air enters through a hole in the base. Heat migration to the cork ring...

After making some 18mm male stainless steel GTR heater covers, it became apparent that they would also make great 18mm roasting tubes. The easiest to make is a straight length of 3/4” ss tubing with a 19/7mm taper cut on one end, using a 17mm adjustable position basket screen. The air flow is...

I start with a 1/2" round screen and form it into an 8mm basket shape. Poke a hole in the center of the screen with sharp pin. Use a sharp point nail to expand the hole larger. Finally a center punch w/ long taper section to expand the hole to the size where it will fit. I don't actually punch a...

Finally got around to adding some stainless steel screen fins to my LSV heater. Works great at around 13 watts, which allows me to comfortably handle any part of the metal body during continuous operation. The screen fins provide more surface area to heat the air and ensure the heater is...

Still making more new roasting tube configurations. Here is my latest design that works w/ both male and female 19mm tapered heater covers and uses paper to line the wood. A male heater cover fits inside and it just fits into a female heater cover. The capacity is enormous and great air flow...

Has anyone ever tried 24k gold beads? The air flow will be better than through solid spheres, and with more heat transfer surface area. Maybe the cost is too much?

@blokenoname - The GTR clones are looking good. Love the 13mm plain glass heater cover. Can really be done with any size glass or ss tube, just depends upon what size roasting bowl you want to use. The ss wire mesh is quite efficient at transferring heat to the air. Nice to see you using flat...

@blokenoname - Glad to hear you are having success wrapping the ss wire mesh around the cartridge heater so you can run in the 6 to 7 watt range. Nice that it can fit within the wood body and not get too hot. @yeswecann - The regular length 7/16” ss is probably the most powerful HI heater cover...

@blokenoname - That longer cartridge heater looks great. Similar in size to 110v version I used in the old GTV. It would allow for twice as many screen fins, which would really increase the surface area and decrease the power needed. The shorter cartridge heaters allow me to position the heater...

Have been so busy lately, that I haven’t a chance to post any updates. The design of the female GTR has changed a bit. No more metal ring at the top, just wood now, as you can see from some of the recent posts people have made. Thanks @Zillacon There is stainless steel foil lining the body on...

The hemp paper roasting tubes look great @darkstar72. I have never made one where the paper tube fits inside the heater cover. Always going for a size that holds larger amounts. Have made a few more paper roasting tube variations recently. Here is the one I use the most. It uses a champagne...

The screw post configuration in the stempod is the same as for the iHeat, so I connect them the same way. Here is a photo I posted a while back where you can see how the wires connect to the 510 deck.

I cut a rectangle of ss foil of the correct size so it creates a tubular liner for the wood. The idea of the disc in the center is to direct more of the heat to the perimeter of the roasting bowl.